Saturday, November 25, 2006

Hola from Puerto Lindo

We are still here in Puerto Lindo, anchored off the Isla Linton. Last Monday we got the bad news that our SSB radio, which would allow us to communicate long range, is beyond repair. We had bought a new tuner and modem for it, and got all the licenses as well. I even learned Morse code to hold the proper radio operators license, so now we are like "The Gift of the Magi". We decided to go without it at this point.

Tuesday November 21, a major storm system came our way. This normally tranquil anchorage was turned into a Maytag, heavy-duty wash cycle. Boats dragged off of anchor, one boat Orion, seems to desperately want to escape out to sea. This is the 4 th time she has dragged or broke anchor while we have been in the same anchorage with her. Before that a call for help came over VHF radio from a single-handed sailor with a broken fingers, who could not find secure spot, and kept re-anchoring during the night.

Gregory went out to the rescue twice that day, glad for the chance to help another sailor as we have received so much help from the community.

One boat is still on her side on the reef and the village docks have all been wiped out by heavy surf.

I was trying to be a good sport about all of this, but on day 3, I really needed to get off the boat. Our friends here invited us over for Thanksgiving dinner at Roger and Binnie's Summer Place (which should really be called Summer Palace), but without a dock to land on and the surf pounding it did not seem possible.

Gregory did not want to leave the boat just then so he dropped me off at a private dock that had survived.


I got to the end of the dock, sooooo happy to be on land. At times like this, I wish my husband had a "normal" vice: like gambling, drugs, or women. I took the coastal path; timing my progress with the waves I made it to Roger and Binnie's. Roger is a former builder and has built a unique refuge here in Puerto Lindo. Their place reflects their love of nature and wildlife that is everywhere here. It is absolutely incredible beauty, comfort, and convenience of the best the modern world can offer, without disturbing natural, wild beauty of jungles around it. They invited us to stay in one of their guest apartments, which of course made my day. The thought of going back to the rock and roll in the anchorage was not a pretty one.

Gregory joined us a bit later and we had a fabulous, traditional Thanksgiving dinner with all the trimmings, great company best of all, and the floor was not moving!!!


After three days of storming the seas are finally quieting down, and we are considering to weigh our anchor in the next two-three days to sail for San Blas.







This is a picture of Carol and Lightening the Sloth.
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Gregory

Thursday, November 16, 2006

We are still in Isla Linton and finding life much more civilized now that we have returned the rental car and spend less time on the road with the "Panamaniac" drivers.

There are large monkeys on the Island, which walk upright much of the time (there are rumors of genetic engineering ala Dr Moreau but we think they were rum induced).


We hear them howling every night, they used to be friendly to people we are told but have been visited by one yahoo too many and now are very anti visitor.


We watched a few nights ago as one hapless couple went to the Island and were promptly


charged by the monkeys, who sent them running into the water, unable to untie their dingy to make a getaway they tried franticly to distract the monkeys by splashing water all about.


I don't guess they will be back too soon.


It is very beautiful here, rimmed by mountains and dotted with small islands.


The nights are stunning when it is not raining and last night I had a great yoga practice under the very starry sky with a nice breeze.


The area we are in is like a percolator in whicn cruisers circulate between Colon, the San Blas and Cartagena.


They go to the islands for peace and quiet and to Colon and Cartagena for repairs, provisioning and some urban entertainment.


We have re encountered several friends, in their percolation cycle while here in Linton.


It is always a treat to see once more, folks you thought you left in your wake.



We had hoped to be on our way to the San Blas by now but are awaiting the verdict on the fate of our SSB radio and Gregory's dental work.


Last night was Pizza night. There are 2 couples of former cruisers who
"Swallowed the hook" and became residents of Panama.


Cindy and Reed and Binnie and Roger (The image to the left is their home). Cindy does great canvas work and she and Reed have helped us out so much, we hope we get to return the favors one day.


Binnie and Roger are big animal lovers and have 2, 2-toed sloths as pets.


The image to the left is Reed and Cindy's Place.


Turns out one of the reasons sloths are so slothful, is that the leaves they chew on all day are slightly narcotic. And you thought they were just dumb animals.


They are very cuddly and sleep with teddy bears.


Anyway, we, and 2 other couples ("Lizzy Jean" who we met in Nicaragua in 2004 and "Spellbound" who was the original listing broker for our boat) piled into their cars and off we went.


You would not think this far out in the middle of nowhere there would be 4 French restaurants in a 6-mile radius.


There are a lot of French ex Pats in the area and being French, they need a good place to eat and entertain.


This place, Don Quixote is run by a Frenchman and Argentinean/Italian woman and the food is great.


The back patio faces the base of a mountain range and the setting is spectacular.


Gotta bring the bug spray though if you do not want to be on the menu yourself.


It was Melissa's 59th birthday. I call he Mountain Mama. She is a machete swinging, monkey raising, horse riding, crop growing, 16 mile a day running force of nature who lives up on a remote mountain alone in a house with no walls and loves it.


Keep your fingers crossed for us that we get the dentist's blessing on Thursday to head out to the San Blas.


Best to all of you,


till nest time,


Carol, Gregory and Felicia 777





P.S. the picture is of our antenna base, which used to be a cylinder until lightening hit it.


--
Gregory

Thursday, November 02, 2006


Hola desde "Carolina Del Norte".

For all of you who are green with envy at our life in paradise, hold the drool now, like spouses and pets, boats do not like to be left alone and make sure to find their own special ways to let you know just how much you have let them down. Our boat/spouse (Felicia 777) is very dramatic and she went so far as to get hit by lightning in our absence which resulted in losses of several electronic instruments.
She also greeted us with some new leaks and "aromas" - my favorite.We are getting her squared away step by step and she finally looks, feels and smells like home again. I am currently mourning the loss of Trader Joe's and Berkeley Bowl's cornucopia of produce and now have to shop like a grown up with a list and a plan. In a week or two we will be able to head out to the San Blas Islands which are gorgeous. There, the Kuna Indians paddle up to your boat to sell the days catch of lobster, conch and crab. Thinking of this gives me some perspective.

Now it's my turn (Gregory that is).

I still am smarting from the dental surgery I had the day we arrived to Panama City, and then driving rental car to Puerto Lindo. The first experience is mitigated by massive doses of pain killers and antibiotics. That leaves impact of driving experience unthreated since it only can be managed by alcohol consumption which is not recommended with antibiotics. Driving rules in Panama are somewhat different:-speed up when approach "Stop" sign;-cross double yellow solid lane only when passing at least two cars;-honk, when running red light, etc.I treasure it as a "cultural" experience. Hopefully all this will be in the past soon, stitches should be removed in a week, and we will be free to weigh our anchor and sail to San Blas. Meanwhile a few projects have to be completed such as replacement and tuning "fried" electronics, oil/filters changes, etc. We have problems with our old digital camera which does not want to be recognised by our new, shining computer, so no new pictures are available.