A few days ago, as we left a popular East Hollandaise anchorage (also known as the Swimming Pool), the latest crisis raised it's ugly head (or was it some other part of it's body?). The engine overheat alarm pierced through my ears, and sent me into an acute state of horror. I have a long and unhappy history of dealing (with intermittent success) with overstmulated diesel engines. Since there was no sufficient wind to sail, we continued using the engine on very low revs, which allowed us to control temperature until we reached Coco Bandero cays. The anchorage was quite busy with 6 or 7 boats, but we found a spot that was a bit rolly. I dove under the boat looking for intake obstruction, which would have been the easiest problem to solve with my highly developed "yanking out" skills, but nothing was there to "yank out". The visual examination of engine, immediately revealed absolutely nothing, which led me to expert opinion that raw water pump impeller needs to be replaced. Now that procedure, which is quite common and easily performed by average diesel mechanic, offers brilliant opportunity to completely destroy something to the real expert cruising sailor like myself. The very next morning, armed with complete set of instructions from the engine manufacturer (written by someone who could not make a living writing for entertainment or any other industry where somebody would be actually reading their writing) and replacement parts, I gloriously succeded in utterly destroying the water pump. It was not easy, but it only took me about two hours of hard and sweaty labor, so I want some of you, who are not initiated in the art of engine mechanics to fully
appreciate the impact of this achievement. In words of famous American philosopher and linguist, Clint Eastwood, "good men know their limitations". This indicates that I am not good man, but I am learning and one day...Well, I asked for help and God gave it to me in a form of John of sailing vessel "Nirvana" which was anchored near by. Although I was surprised to learn how much longer it takes to rebuild the broken pump compared to breaking it. I hope you now realize together with me that the state of spiritual bliss (aka Nirvana) can only be achieved through development of engine maintenance skills, as John thaught me that day. I remember reading the book about it - "Zen and the Art of Diesel Engine Maintenance" or something like that, but I am deliriously rumbling now.
Everything is "cool" now, and that includes my diesel. Thank you John for your generosity and patience.

We are now anchored off an island of Cangombia, all by ourselves.

Carol says:
Some are born to cruising and some have cruising thrust upon them. Being something of a JAP, the challenges, work and "creature discomfort" of this lifestyle sometimes make me long for a simple apartment, a double cappucino and HBO.
There are great pleasures though, the natural beauty and people we meet being the best. I saw several shooting stars last night and we often see fishes parading by in the clear waters. At Coco Banderos we re connected with Suzanne and Hans from Nautibear and
met some great people at the trash burn/cocktail party.

Sue from Seapupu (Indian for the birthplace of life) and Suzanne and I schlepped our laundry to the well on the island and made doing the wash a social event with circumnavigations of the island between soak and rinse.
We also had a great time getting better aquainted with Jackie and Mel from Feisty over drinks and snacks. They have a gorgeous boat and keep it so well, I am inspired to spruce up our Felicia.
We will be here another 2 days till we go back to the "Swimming Pool" to get our goods which include filet mignon from Cartagena, flour and yeast via Mark the personal shopper.
I have had major challenges making my challah on Fridays.
First I could not find active enough yeast, last week the yeast was great but the flour tasted funny. Oy!

Happy Holidays!

Hello from San Blas islands

We have finally made it to the first chain of islands (East Lemon Keys)
about 10 days ago. The sail was uneventfull - just like Carol likes it, no
wind, no waves, no catching fish, no seaseakness. Time here has very
different dimension. Familiar anchorages, familiar Kuna faces selling
molas, etc. Very beautiful and very peaceful. We finally got some fish and
then some lobster to eat, and slowly adapting to routines of swimming,
snorkling, "making" water, managing energy production/consumption, "happy
hours", special projects - quite boring and very slow, beacuse it's
difficult to be excited when it is so hot.

Now we are anchored off East Hollandaise islands in a place called " The
swimming pool" as it is that blue and calm. Even in high winds like we had
a few days ago. Gregory dove in for a swim and as I was descending the swim
ladder behind him, I heard, "watch out for the cuuuuurrrrennnt!" as he
whoshed by. You can swim very hard and stay in place like a treadmill. It
has calmed down a lot since then.
There is a boat called "Melody" that is the cruisers personal shopper. He
sails between Colon and Cartagena every two weeks to transport backpackers
and to get supplies for all of us. You give him a list and he gets your
stuff a week or so later for a 30 percent markup. Sounds steep but prices
are low enough that it still beats the schlep.

We have no way to post any pictures from here for now, but working on this
problem.
Gregory